HairPplay: Flat Twistout Parts I & II

Like the Curly set but want something quicker and slightly different? Prefer a soft tossled look with hang time rather than fat curls? Then try this Flat Twistout!

Flat Twistout Parts I & II

How To Video:





More videos to come soon. Thanks for watching,

Kamika lovin this style

Motown Girl Spotlight of the Week

Ya'll come check me out over at Motown Girl. I'm the Spotlight of the Week.

Here's an excerpt:

What advice would you give someone who was thinking of going natural?:

1. As with everything in your life, ask yourself why you want to do this. Truly delve deep into yourself and look around. Going natural was the best thing for me because it promoted my health, improved my self-esteem, and re-ignited a fire in me.

2. Don't make a decision because it's faddish or because you like a certain style, or because you hope you'll have a loose silky curly texture. Make a commitment to YOU as a whole, because if you're committed, when the naysayers come it won't affect you.

3. Become informed!

Read up on hair and haircare as if you were studying to become a stylist yourself. Learn about products, ingredients, and styling tools. If need be find a good natural stylist in your area and pick their brain.

The more informed you are about haircare the less foolishness you will fall for (RIO anybody?) and the more money you will save on useless products that don't work for your hair.

4. Start now by widening your definition of beauty.

Add people with hair similar to yours to your beauty ideal. Create a look book or online album to inspire yourself and keep you motivated.

5. Join a supportive network.

Some good online sites are Motown Girl, Nappturality, Long Hair Care Forum, etc. But don't just stop there. You need a supportive network for your life in general. Hair is only a small part of it. If your spirit is content then your hair will be beautiful.

6. Remember it's your hair!

If you are committed to a healthy you and healthy hair then the occasional pressing, flat-ironing, etc. should be fine. It's your hair! Don't become re-imprisoned by other peoples ideas about what you should do to your hair.

7. Just do it! It'll grow back.

For the rest of the article stop by MotownGirl.Com and check it out. I really appreciate being spotlighted. MotownGirl is a great site to get informed about natural hair care.

Kamika facial video to be posted tomorrow on my YouTube channel. So stop on by!

Hairplay: Elasta DPR-11 Remoisturizer

I've been using this stuff for the last year or so and I still love it. Elasta DPR-11 Remosturizer is one of the best deep conditioners I've ever used and I've used a lot!

~It "contains 11 conditioning botanicals including Peach Blossom oil and Vitamin E

~Penetrates inner hair fibers to surge nutrients to moisture depleted hair

~Perfect hair repair treatment when combined with Elasta QP Protein Supplement.

I usually mix mine with honey, castor oil, and coconut oil, put on a plastic cap and cover my head with my warming heat cap for about 45 minutes. Afterwards I rinse with cool water and style. Instant softness, shine with no tangles or knots.

I you are concerned about cones and certain other ingredients, note that this has Dimethicone and Petroleum in it.

Ingredients: Chamomille, Nettle, Balm Mint Leaf Oil, Coltsfoot Extract, Horse Chestnut Extract, Sage Leaf Extract, Rosemary Extract, Petroleum, Cetyel Alcohol, Cetromonium Chloride, Dimethicone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Laurus Nobblis Oil, Orange Oil, Neroli Oil, Black Currant Seed Oil.


Kamika Happy Conditioning

Hairplay: Curly Set On Natural Hair

Meant to post this on Friday. If you frequent my YouTube channel then you've probably already seen this. If you don't enjoy!

Curly Set On Natural Hair

How To Video:



More videos to come soon. Thanks for watching,

Kamika lovin this style

The President, Fair Trade, and the Growth Initiative

Today the Prezzy prez, that is Obama, touched down today in Long Beach right outside my office. Folks were lined up all along the streets and in the tunnels. Our parking lot was full of cars that didn't belong to any of the employees that worked in the business park. Folks in the building were excited and giddy. From our office we had a birds-eye view through the windows. The new Air Force One is a very pretty plane. Very sleek and colorful. He landed, jumped on Marine One and was escorted by 3 other helicopters to Costa Mesa. Just a little excitement for the day.

Now back to me. Today is Day 4 of my personal Protective Style Challenge. On Saturday I braided my hair into a gazillion little box braids that I plan to keep up for 3 weeks to a month - repeat. Every night I will moisturize them with my rosewater mixture and baggy the ends. By following this method I hope to be better able to retain my ends and see increased length. At the end of this month after I rebraid I will show progress picks. My goal by the end of this year is full armpit length or just below. I'm being hindered by occasional scalp flair ups in the back area where I had alopecia, which leads me to my next topic.

I wanted to show you my recent haul. I love it when I get boxes in the mail. A couple of weeks ago I infused Castor oil with fresh rosemary and sage leaves. I wanted to see if I could get better effects with a fresh infusion vs. an essential oil mixture. So far so good. I'm loving the Castor oil mixture so I bought a few other treats to try. In a later post I will explain what each of these herbs are and their uses. I may even post a video.


From Mountain Rose Herbs I got the following organic fresh dried herbs: Lemon Balm, Chamomile Flowers, Peppermint Leaf, Rose hips, Nettle Leaf, Horsetail, Burdock Root, and Dandelion leaf. I plan to try some new oil infusions and make tea. I also ordered some fresh unrefined cocoa butter. Many of these items are Fair trade.


During this challenge I also plan to start hennaing my hair more often. One place I've used before and gotten great results is Mehandi. This time I'm not really going for color (my hair is darker than it has every been and I love it) but strength and conditioning. I bought two packs of the red label for African Hair. Mehandi has excellent henna that is finely sifted, smooth in texture and deposits great color. Also the prices are very reasonable. 200g cost me $14 with shipping.

Lastly, I picked up some yarn. I loved the Cycling Aran so much that I decided to make one for myself. My LYS Compatto Yarn Salon was having a sale and I got a spiffy deal on some Debbie Bliss Cashmerino. I plan to start working on this soon but it may have to wait until school is out.


Be sure to check me out on YouTube to see what else I'm doing.



Kamika Au natural

Hairplay: Bentonite Clay Tutorial

Sorry! I meant to post this yesterday but I fell behind. This is a tutorial on Bentonite Clay:

Bentonite Clay or "Natural Calcium Bentonite" can be used as an agent to absorb excess sebum, clearing pores. It may be used like a shampoo trapping and removing dirt, debris, build up and other particles from your hair and scalp. You can use this on natural, relaxed, and loc'd hair. Check out more details here at AnitaGrant . I bought mine at my local health food store for $4.99. You can buy the Hibiscus (Jamaica) at your local ethnic grocery store in the produce section.

How to:



This is now a part of my monthly routine. I plan to use this twice a month to clarify and detox my scalp. It left my hair so soft and manageable. I highly recommend it.

BTW, much love to you all (lurkers included) for stopping by and leaving comments on my last Hairplay. It was greatly appreciated! I haven't stopped knitting, crocheting, or sewing. I just haven't been doing those as much and I've been pretty busy with work. I plan to have some updates for you all this week.


Kamika with Love

Ah Hah! Say No To Head Buzz

Just recently I did a quick review of Miss Jessie's Baby Buttercream after shouting, "Wait a Minute Mr. Postman!" In that post I praised the results I got from the product and how much I liked it. At the end I did mention one Caveat - I kept feeling slightly light-headed.

Light-headed. Let's explore this sensation for a moment. Walk with me...

Light-headness - a common and often unpleasant sensation of dizziness and/or feeling that one may be about to faint...feeling as though his or her head is weightless. Wikipedia.

After applying the Baby Buttercreme this is how I felt but without the fainting spell. I constantly felt like I was withdrawing from caffeine. You know, that slightly buzzy feeling? Not a tingle ladies. A warm but bearable buzz. But that's just the tip of it. The skin on my forehead started to become inflamed. I also started noticing breakage and more shedding just from touching my locks. A small patch of my hair in the nape area is missing. Yep, just vanished! I know the trees were there because I have pictures and because there is STUBBLE!!! Stubble can only mean breakage. Breakage in an area that I touch a lot (at times I have recurring Hand-In-Fro disease. It's terminal). I haven't had breakage like this since I gave up the relaxer 3 years ago. Now mind you, my hair looked fabulous but at what cost? I had to research this. I also immediately stopped using the product.

The beginnings of my natural hair journey didn't start with the easing in of transitioning. No, I wanted the full trial by fire experience that only comes with the BC. Considering this, I had no problems chucking a product that kept my hair glossy and made my hair appear more acceptable to the masses. NO! But I digress.

After careful research I believe I found the problem. Acetylated Lanolin! Damn Damn Damn! WOOL!!! I'm allergic to pure wool!! **This is going to be a little exhaustive.**

Acetylated Lanolin, also called Sheep/Wool Alcohol or even Wool Oil, is a thick waxy sebum(oil) secreted by sheep to give there coats a glossy sheen and keep the skin underneath soft and supple. When the sheep are shorn the Lanolin is extracted from their coats, cleaned, and processed for use in all kinds of products. Like most other oils commonly used on hair, when applied after moisture, Lanolin will lock the moisture in making your hair feel softer and more moisturized. It's non-drying and the animal variety can be pretty anti-allergenic. You can find it in lotions, lipsticks, lip balms, shampoos and conditioners, and hair products et al.

So you say, "What gives? Lanolin is found in at least 1/3 of the beauty products out there." True, but it's usually found in smaller quantities closer to the end of the ingredients list and only used as filler or an emollient. Acetylated Lanolin is the second ingredient in this product which means there is a high concentration of it. Behind water it's mostly wool oil.

As stated earlier, Lanolin softens, soothes, and nourishes skin but coats and potentially suffocates hair because of it's thickness and binding properties. (The picture to the left is lanolin on a pole) It becomes wax and we all know what happens to wax after it has cooled. It becomes hard and non-porous which means no water escapes it but none gets in as well. Regular use of Lanolin rich products will ultimately cause build-up resulting in hair that drys in on itself because no moisture can enter in to replenish it. The wax attracts dirt and dust to each strand further clogging the hair follicles. Dryness, dirt, and dust are a proven recipe for tangling and hair breakage.


Another major problem. Acetylated Lanolin is slightly different than natural Lanolin in that to be acetylated certain natural molecular properties of the Lanolin are exchanged with Acetic Acid and LYE. Acetic Acid is a mild acid that is corrosive and prone to causing skin burns, eye damage, skin irritation, etc. It descales like Lime A-Way. Naturally found in vinegar it causes the pungent smell and sour taste we are all familiar with. In and of itself Acetic Acid is not really harmful when used in small doses but overtime regular use of it on your hair can be harmful. We all know what LYE is and what harm it can do.


Thirdly, Acetylated Lanolin is highly comedogenic. Meaning it clogs pores and has a tendency to produce or aggravate acne. When using products that contain this ingredient you must be careful to not allow the hair to hang in your face. Nuff said!


So I found my devil in the details. Wool in the form of Acetylated Lanolin. I can't wear pure wool without rashing so obviously the use of it in my hair is no different. My research explained the buzzing sensation and the hair loss I've been experiencing. Since I stopped using it 4 days ago the sensations have left. The remainder of the jar will be put in the "outbox" to be given away to those who are not allergic or trashed.

Baby Buttercream and it's sister Curly Buttercream are useful products, but I don't believe they are for me. I strongly suggest to anyone who may have wool sensitivities or allergies, avoid this product and any product for that matter that has Lanolin in it. If you are prone to acne or facial irritation, avoid using this near your face or placing your hands in your face after touching your hair. If you have found this to be one of your Holy Grail products, I highly recommend incorporating a regular clarifying treatment into your weekly hair regimen followed by a deep moisturizing treatment before reapplying this product. Oddly enough when I started using the product I was cowashing every day to every other day. Cowashing is not recommended with this product. You will only further add to the build-up on your tresses. You need to shampoo.


So there it is. Another Miss Jessie's product bites the dust for me. I'm truly not out to get them, I promise. I've just found that there product line doesn't work for me. I hope this review will be found helpful especially to the product junkies that are fiending to buy these cremes. I will try to find a comparable replacement and if I do I'll post it here. Currently I've gone back to using my Cantu Shea Butter Leave-In Conditioning Repair Creme. It has "Lanolin" in it but it's #14 on a list of about 22 ingredients. As soon as I'm done with this I think I may not purchase it again. Even though I like it a lot, there has got to be something out there that doesn't have Lanolin and a whole bunch of chemicals in it.



Kamika Inspector #32

Beautiful Tresses Not Winter Stresses

Winter temps in these parts can be hard on one's hair. Natural or relaxed the cold harsh weather can wreak havoc on your style and on the condition of your strands, leaving it dry and brittle. Styling one's hair in the dead of winter's dry air can cause "Winter Static" -static buildup from products and dry air that leads to tangles, knots, and fly-aways. Good looking healthy hair requires moisture and protection from the harsh winter elements. But in a season that's known to be wet and with your mom's old saying "going out in the cold with wet hair will make you sick" in the back of your mind, how do you get the moisture that you need? By the way, that's not true.

Dry hair and by extension a dry scalp doesn't need much to be re-invigorated. As long as you have water and quality natural products (used in moderation) your hair can sing in the rain, sleet or snow. Here's a few things you should know about keeping your hair gorgeous in every season:

• Drink lots of water! I can't stress this enough. Beauty starts from the inside and so do your strands. If your body is not properly hydrated your hair will grow brittle from the root leading to quick breakage and less retainage. Water transports vitamins, nutrients, and hormones throughout your body including to your scalp. It also carries away any toxins. Try to drink as much as half your body weight (in ounces (oz)) in water each day.
  
  
• Eat your fruits & vegetables. Try a salad a day of dark leafy greens for Copper and Iron, which prevent hair loss, and colorful toppings like Avocado - counteracts slow hair growth, Broccoli - promotes supple and elastic (breathable) scalp, Garlic and Red Onions - rich in MSM Sulfur for strong hair strand structure, and a whole host of others. Not only will you have gorgeous hair but a FABU body and skin to go along with it!

• Pre-Condition, Condition, & Deep Condition. Depending on where you live, and the wind chill factor of your locale, will determine how often you can put water in your hair. In really cold areas such as the the east coast and the pacific northwest the weather may make daily washes/rinses prohibitive. Only you can determine what works best for your hair in your area.
  
  Because I'm in Southern California with our temperate climate, I can get away with rinsing my hair more often than others. I say rinsing because unless you've found a good non-drying shampoo (more on that in the future) the sulfates can be extra drying in the winter. To combat this many women create a conditioning regimen for their hair that includes:
  
  >>Pre-conditioning - dry bathing their hair in moisture retaining products such as castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, honey, essential oils, and even apple cider vinegar and baking soda. By doing this, you will limit the amount of natural oils made by your scalp, lost during washing.
  
  >>Conditioning - use a moisture rich conditioner either after shampoo or as your shampoo to retain the water from your wash. I'm a big fan of conditioner washing also called no-poo or low-poo. Shampoo is made to cleanse the scalp but can be too harsh for your hair strands, conditioner is made to clean, smooth, and coat your hair strands and retain the moisture. If you don't use a lot of pruducts or if you don't have a problem with build-up no or low-pooing may be the way to go for you. I do this about 2 to 3 times per week and wash with shampoo every 2 weeks (more frequently if I've used a lot of products).
  
  >>Deep Conditioning - combines pre-conditioning and conditioning (low/no pooing) together in one step to be done either after shampooing or after clear rinsing your hair. Mix both of the earlier treatments together, apply to your hair, and for best results apply low heat using a heat cap or warm towel over a shower cap, for at least 15 minutes to open the hair follicles for deeper penetration. Sometimes I even go into the steam room at the gym for an extra conditioning bang. Rinse after and style as usual.
  
  
• Keep products to a minimum. Too many products and/or too much of a product creates product build-up. Product build-up is like a smothering sludge that sits on your scalp closing your hair follicles preventing them from breathing properly. If your hair is closed and not porose then moisture will not get in. Remember our hair needs as much moisture as possible.
  
  Did you know that too much product can aid in the growth of dandruff, prematurely thin your hair strands, give your hair shade a mousy tinge, and cause acne? Did you also know that mixing to many different products from different manufacturers together can be toxic and cause an allergic reaction? Yes, cut back on the product! Less is better.
  
  Another reason I advocate less product is so that you know which products actually work on your hair and which don't saving you time, heartache, and money!
  
  
• Treat your scalp. Gently massage your scalp between washes/rinses. Use a light carrier oil such as olive oil mixed with an essential oil like rosemary or tea tree oil. With a dollop on your finger tips work in circular motions on your scalp. Try not to get it on the hair. If oils are not your thing try a nice cream moisturizer.
  
  
• Reduce Heat. We all know that heat is drying. No matter how it's used, it usually ends up dehydrating, evaporating, and leaving dry something or another. Prolonged heat causes damage and reduces elasticity. Hair with body and movement, soft coils and fat curls require elasticity to be bouncy and spring back into shape. Too much heat hinders this and leaves strands permanently straight and limp.
  
  
• Get regular trims. Yes, make sure the already dead dry ends are gone. They sap moisture from the rest of your hair.
  
  
• Protect it from the elements. In the winter months I tend to put my hair up in protective styles to keep handling to a minimum and to retain those ends. I often wear braid extensions, yarn braids or corn rows to achieve an instant style update all the while keeping my tresses up and protected. Many women wear wigs, weaves, buns or chignons (be careful with your hair line) to achieve the same results. Becareful that whatever style you choose it's not so tight that it pulls excessively at the scalp. The pullng alone can cause stress bumps and dry scalp that looks like dandruff.

Contrary to the the urban legend that your hair grows better dirty- clean hair and a healthy scalp is the way to go. Nothing is more unattractive than a women patting, scratchy, and rubbing her (more than likely dirty) head in an effort to get at the itchies while trying to maintain her hairstyle for 2 weeks or more. Stop the insanity. Healthy hair, be it short or long, no matter how you rock it needs to be clean in order to be shiny and resilient.

I hope the tips above help you to take control of your hair and triumph over your dry scalp. These are tried and true tips that I've learned over the years and have helped me greatly. Questions? Leave me a comment. For a list of some of the products I use, check my hair album here! Great links on the sidebar ~~~~>

Kamika